India's Last Ballot: Modi and Saris Triumph in Temple Town Varanasi

It's anticipated that Modi will secure his seat with ease, yet the margin of victory may serve as an indicator of his party's performance on a national scale.

Pavel (Reporter)

May 29, 2024

1 minute

World

Varanasi, India—Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi is renowned for his grand roadshows, where adoring crowds shower him with marigold petals. This spectacle has been witnessed across numerous cities in recent weeks during India's historic election, with Varanasi, a city steeped in history and located in the politically crucial state of Uttar Pradesh, serving as his parliamentary constituency. Here, the narrow streets amplify the perception of overflowing crowds eager for a glimpse of the prime minister.

On May 13, Modi led a 5-kilometer (3-mile) roadshow through the city, situated on the banks of the Ganges River. Rumors, fueled by local journalists, suggested that Modi's Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) bussed in supporters from nearby districts. However, as Varanasi prepares to vote on June 1 in the final phase of India's mammoth election, few doubt Modi's almost certain victory in this city of deep religious significance for Hindus.

"The only question is whether Prime Minister Modi will win by the same margin as last time," remarked Vishwambhar Mishra, a professor at the Indian Institute of Technology (IIT) Benaras Hindu University and president of the Sankat Mochan Foundation, which advocates for cleaning the Ganges, a revered river for Hindus. In the 2019 parliamentary elections, Modi won by a margin of about 600,000 votes.

The margin of Modi's anticipated victory holds significance beyond mere statistics—the BJP hopes that his campaign in Varanasi and his presence in the region will bolster its chances in 13 neighboring parliamentary seats where it faces stiff competition from the opposition INDIA alliance.

In Varanasi, Modi faces a familiar opponent: Ajay Rai of the Congress, India's principal opposition party. Rai also contested against Modi in 2019, but is not expected to mount a significant challenge this time. The Congress party's decision to field Rai has displeased some within its ranks, such as Anoop Mishra, a former congressman and hotelier who has since left the party. "Prime Minister Modi will be handsomely rewarded this time. Rai cannot pose much of a threat," remarked Anoop Mishra.

Modi's influence is palpable throughout Varanasi, one of India's most densely populated cities. The historic Kashi Vishwanath Temple is the city's main attraction, and recent infrastructure improvements have eased access for pilgrims, with a new highway and widened roads facilitating travel between the airport and the temple. At the temple, paramilitary forces manage crowds with precision.

In Varanasi, religion is also a form of commerce, and here too, Modi has made strides. The city saw 5.5 million visitors in 2014, the year Modi first contested and won from Varanasi and subsequently became prime minister. By 2023, that number had soared to 54 million—an almost tenfold increase. In 2018, Modi inaugurated a river port on the Ganges, further solidifying his connection to the city.